Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Nokyaweon (녹야원)

Note: This has been stuck in "Draft" purgatory for several months, but I decided to just throw it up as-is.  Find this place and have a meal there, it's incredible!



I've raved about Perilla (들깨) on this blog before.  You can eat the leaves raw or as kimchi; you can eat the seeds raw or roasted, or powder them to add to to soups, sides, and even pancakes; and you can use the oil to dress salads or to cook just about anything. Perilla, by virtue of its myriad uses, seems to me to be on par with coconuts, or even with hemp.

Though, of course, there are some small differences. 

Anyway, such thoughts regarding the resourcefulness of Korean cuisine, the absolute refusal to waste any part of a plant, and thus the earth, rain, and sunlight that brought it to life, surfaced in my mind on a recent visit to Nokyaweon, a truly splendid restaurant located in Chilgok's less-visited east side. In particular, it was this that threw me into a reverie:


That's right, yet another perilla dish, which I hereby dub "pickeld perilla pod."  (들깨 줄기 짱아치).  If you look closely, you may be able to see that each stem has a series of little vase-like protrusions, each shaped just-so, perfectly able to cradle and eventually release the seeds that will eventually become next year's plant, or, in this case, this evening's meal. 

The slightly sour, stingy pickled perilla pod is just one of dozens of beautifully prepared, wholesome, delicious side dishes that come standard with every Nokyaweon course meal.  The dishes all change with the season, but here's a typical first course:


Starting from the center, moving outwards in a clockwise spiral:  black sesame and pumpkin seed porridge, lettuce and cabbage salad, soft tofu salad, jellyfish with julienned vegetables, a pumpkin pancake, and steamed pumpkin and bean sprout side dishes.

Then come some of the heavy hitters: pan-fried tofu; lettuce, onion, and carrot salad with rich, sweet, spicy dressing; assorted bibimbap veggies; radish leaf and perilla powder soup; and hearty whole-grain rice.  




There's more, too, but I didn't want to fill the post up with too many pictures.  Suffice it to say that I wouldn't have been surprised if the table had collapsed under the weight of our meal.



I was introduced to Nokyaweon one fateful day by Mr. Kim Gi-su, manager of Chilgok's 농부장터 (The Farmers' Marketplace).  Owner Kim Myeong-suk, as the decor makes clear, originally intended Nokyaweon as a place to share her family's knowledge about the power of tea, particularly Puer Tea (보이차) when grown, fermented, and processed according to traditional methods, to promote human health. In fact, Mrs. Kim's husband spends one semester a year in China lecturing about tea at universities and traveling deep into the countryside near the Burmese border to collect the finest tea leaves. 



Nonetheless, the snacks and side dishes served along with the tea were so tasty that customers continually requested more, leading Nokyaweon to shift their emphasis. Now, at least in the mind of the hungry customer, the tea takes a backseat to the food.   

And what food!  Like Mr. Kim's store, Nokyaweon is about good food in all senses of the word - good for the palate, good for people, good for the planet.  In their own words:


"At Tea-loving Nokyaweon...
 - In order to preserve the inherent taste of our carefully selected ingredients, 
we don't use artificial additives in any of our dishes. 
 - Through clean, clear tea and healthy food that allow humans and nature to coexist
We are doing our best to create a better food culture.

What Nokyaweon does:
- We produce and sell clean and clear, naturally fermented Puer tea.
- We produce and sell our own (Korean) eco-friendly Puer tea.
- We teach about and serve clean, wholesome traditional Puer tea.  Know your food.
 - We help to make good habits by emphasizing the importance of tea and food for human health.
- We share and spread the taste and beauty of traditional Korean food.
- We share Korean culture through international cultural exchanges and other volunteer opportunities."

For those who found that part a little wordy, here's the menu:

 
   - Jeongsik (set meal) with rice steamed inside of a lotus leaf: 20k (tea included)
- Brown rice healthy set meal with tea: 15k (pictured above)
- Bibimbap: 10k
- Cold noodles with young radish leaf and fruit:10k

Sides:
- Duck Bulgogi: 20k
- Red pepper paste bulgogi: 20k
- Roast turkey: 20k
- Steamed mushrooms: 10k

Sound good?  Interested in visiting the restaurant, meeting the family, and learning a thing or two about tea?  Nokyaweon is open for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday.  Reservations aren't necessary.  Nokyaweon is located on the east side of Chilgok, north of Unamji lake and south of Hamji park, in a smallsih alley across the street from the Greenville 4 Danji apartments.  The closest bus stops are Buyeong 7 Danji (939), Greenville 4 Danji (939, Chilgok 1-1), and Unam Elemetary School (Chilgok 1-1, Rapid Bus 2).  Even so, it's a bit hard to find, so have a look at the Green Guide map before setting out.


Mrs. Kim and Family

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Heat Therapy at Biche!

Does anyone remember Biche, the super eco-center south of Manchon that houses an organic market, an organic restaurant, the eco-feminist network, as well as a space they kindly allowed us to use to show the documentary Forks Over Knives?  Well, there's more: the fourth floor is home to the Body and Culture / Fasting and Filling healing center.  After a zip-lining incident at Herb Hills a few weeks ago that damaged my hip, ribs, kidney, and pretty much the rest of the left side of my body as well, I found myself in need of some medical attention and decided to pay a visit to Doctor Jeong, who practices a particular type of oriental medicine - first developed in Okinawa, actually - called "주열" (Ju-yeol) heat therapy.  

When I first got there, they had me change into patient clothes and lie down on a massage table. 


Over in the corner, Dr. Jeong switched on a few mysterious-looking devices:


They turned out to be something like irons.  Or at least that's the analogy that came to mind as he ran them over my aching muscles, alternately warming and massaging them, helping to restore proper blood circulation and allow them to recover from the shock my mid-air collision had given them. 

After about thirty minutes of work, he moved me over to the next device:
 

I lay down on the stone table, then the doctor rolled the bamboo sheath up over me, and dropped the towel down over my neck, so that only my head was outside of the chamber.


He moved over to the control panel and, once again, switched on the heat.


I was then left alone for another half-hour to meditate, sleep, and sweat it out in my own personal capsule sauna.  Despite the heat inside, my head outside stayed nice and cool and I was able to allow my body to heat up without growing nauseous. The heat eases the tension in stressed and pulled muscles, and helps your body to break down clots and other impurities in the bloodstream, restoring circulation and allowing the body to go about the business of healing itself. 

According to Dr. Jeong, because Ju-yeol therapy accelerates the body's natural healing mechanisms, it can be helpful in curing various diseases, from muscle strain to eczema to digestive issues to the common cold and even some types of cancer. I for one walked out of the office feeling much better - the pain that had caused me to wince every time I lay down our mounted my bicycle had mostly subsided, as had the fear that I had somehow done permanent damage to my kidney and other vital organs.

To make an appointment, you can call the office at 053 -752-0991 or Dr. Jeong directly at 010-6591-7706. A bit of Korean will be useful, but the doctor speaks basic English. Ju-yeol therapy costs 50,000 won per visit, or 40,000 if you register as a member of the center.  Membership costs 10,000 won per month. 

Also, the restaurant has put out a new and updated menu!  You can check it out here.  (Sorry, Korean only.  The new manager, Mr. Hwang, speaks quite good English though!)

Biche is located behind the Hwangeum-dong Taewan Honors Apartments about 1.5km south of the Suseong-gu Office subway station and 2km southwest of Mancheon subway station.  The closest bus stop is Dongdo Middle School (동도중학교), which is served by the 349, 414, 427, 449, 순환3, and 수성1 buses. Check out the Green Guide map for more details.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

SO Delicious!

One time, several years ago, a friend of mine somehow scrounged up a tub of non-dairy ice cream from a chest at a convenience store. Ever since, I've occasionally found myself stopping at random GS25s and Family Marts and digging, hoping against hope that I might run into a little treasure.  Alas, no such luck...until now.  Look what just popped up a short walk away from Beomeo Station:





SO Delicious, consistent source of organic, vegan ice cream and numerous other treats!  They opened sometime in April and serve a decent variety of foods for a place so small. 


The ice cream is all vegan-friendly.  Most varieties are made from soy, though there are some coconut-based flavors in the mix, too.  The current line-up, from left to right, top to bottom: mango-passion fruit, chocolate almond brownie, vanilla, blueberry chiux cream, raspberry, cookies and cream, strawberry, and green tea.  Sizes range from tiny, which gets you two scoops of one flavor for 2,900 won, to "Mountain Cup", which gets you something like a pint and a half of your choice of flavors for 16,800.  


 The ice cream is all USDA organic ceritified... 

...as are most of the the bakery items!  Cookies, cakes, rolls, loaves, and more.  



Not everything is vegan-friendly, but the stuff that is is clearly labeled:


(No butter, eggs, or dairy)

 There's also a cold case with sandwiches, cakes, etc. 

   

And also, the cutest little thimble-size servings of jam you've ever seen...



Now that summer is upon us, swing by!  So Delicious is open until 10PM seven days a week.  Apparently, that days remaining bakery treats also drop down to clearance prices after 9PM.  Finally, as if that weren't enough, the owner, Mrs. Nam, is also very friendly and speaks excellent English. 

To get there, come out of Beomeo Station, exit two.  Walk straight until the second big intersection, and turn left just before the SK Gas Station and Porin Shabu Shabu restaurant.  Walk down just a few minutes, passing a fire station on your right.  When you get to the main entrance of Lotte Castle Apartments, look across the street to your left.  There she'll be!  Visit the Green Guide to see it all mapped out. 

Head over to the Photo Page to see the entire menu, which also includes coffee, tea, and some other good stuff.


Friday, May 25, 2012

Eco-Film Night: Up the Yangtze

Short notice, I know, but we've got another one coming up tomorrow!




In China, it is simply known as “The River.” But the Yangtze—and all of the life that surrounds it— underwent a truly astonishing transformation wrought by the largest hydroelectric project in history, the Three Gorges Dam. Started in 1994, the dam is only now nearing completion.

Up the Yangtze, released in 2007, traces the surreal life of a “farewell cruise” that traverses the gargantuan waterway filled with tourists who have come to see "old China" before it disappears, and locals who are lured by the jobs and tips that such visitors bring.

Director Yung Chang’s approach beautifully captures the microcosmic society of the luxury liner. Below deck: A bewildered young girl trains as a dishwasher—sent to work by her peasant family, who is on the verge of relocation from the encroaching floodwaters. Above deck: A variety of wealthy international tourists set sail to catch a last glance of a country in dramatic flux.

Although based on a project that is nearly complete, and thus cannot be stopped or reversed, Up the Yangze captures a moment in time and gives a human dimension to the wrenching changes facing not only an increasingly globalized China, but the world at large. It is a memory of lives swallowed up for the sake of "progress", and a warning of a future in which we may one day have nothing left to lose.


Three Gorges Dam Info:
International Rivers Organization
http://www.internationalrivers.org/campaigns/three-gorges-dam

New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/20/world/asia/20gorges.html


What:  Up the Yangtze
Where:  Downtown Daegu, Buy the Book Cafe'
When:  Saturday, May 26th, 8PM

Who:  One and all
How Much:  Free!  But please consider buying a drink, snack, meal, or dessert from Buy the Book to thank them for sharing their space with us. 

Korean Subtitles?:  Yup, we made them!  Bring your friends!

 


---------------------------------------

국에서 그냥 ""이라고 불린다하지만 양쯔강은 - 그리고 강을 둘려싸인 모든 생명은   - 역사상 제일 수력 발전 공사인 샨샤 때문에 매우 놀랍게 변경이 되었다공사는 1994년에 시작되었으며 이제야 완공에 가까워진다

Up the Yangtze (양쯔강을 따라서)영화는 커다란 수로를 가로지르는 아주 이상한 "송별 크루즈" 따라다닌다 크루즈의 승객들은 그것이 사라지기 "원래 중국" 보고 싶어하는 여행객들, 그리고 여행객들에 따른 일과 팁에 끌린 지역 중국인들도 있다.

융창 감동의 접근법은 럭셔리 배의 사회의 축소판을 아름답게 담는다아래 층에서: 당황한 어린 여자 아이 명이 설거지 담당자가  되는 훈련을 받는다그녀의 소작농 부모는 홍수로 인한 다가오는 때문에 이전될 예정이라서 그녀를 배에 보냈다위층에서: 여러가지의 부유한 국제관광객들은 매우 빨리 변경 되는 나라를 마지막으로 관람하기를 위해서 배를 탔다.

완공이 되어 가서,  멈추거나 뒤돌릴 없다그래도 "양쯔강을 따라서" 순간 담으며 속세화 중국뿐만아니라 다른 세상이 직면해야 되는 고통스로운 문제들을 인간다운 관점에서 바라본다.  "진행"  위해서 먹힌 인생들의 기억이다그리고 이상 잃어 버릴 것이 없는 미래에 대한 경고다

무엇: 에코필름 - 양쯔강을 따라서
언제:  5월 26일 토요일 오후 8시
어디서: 대구 시내 Buy the Book Cafe'
누구: 누구든지
얼마: 무료입장.  그렇지만 원하시는 분 케페를 지원을 하기를 위해 과자나 음료, 또는 식사를 그매하면 감사하지요!
한글자막?:  네, 직접 만들어 드렸습니다. 꼭 오세요!